Semporna Sabah Travel: 5 Transformative Moments with Sea Nomads
Semporna Sabah Travel: Where Sea Meets Sky
In the tropical waters of Malaysia lies a town called Semporna. It’s split into two worlds. On one side, a dreamy diving paradise. On the other, a primitive village seemingly left behind by time. When I set foot here, I was surprised to find that the colorful coral reefs weren’t what moved me most. It was my brief encounters with the Bajau people. Their vitality and survival wisdom made me deeply reflect on modern life.
Luxury and poverty intertwine here. In Semporna Sabah, life is chaos, an uncertain journey that’s hard to describe.
Meeting the Bajau: A Sea Nomad Journey that Began Online
It all started with a random video I saw on Xiaohongshu.
On my screen, the Bajau water village looked magical. Children moved freely between wooden houses, with the sea as their playground. This way of life, so different from modern city living, deeply captivated me. I began researching these “sea gypsies,” reading about their stateless identity, their wisdom of living with the sea, and their survival challenges.
That’s how Semporna became my destination—not just for its famous diving spots, but to witness this unique lifestyle and understand this tribe so connected to the ocean.
On our way to Mabul Island, we passed through a Bajau village. Simple stilt houses stood in stark contrast to nearby luxury water villas costing thousands per night. Children would call out “money, money” when they saw tourists, perhaps the only English words they knew.
What surprised me was that even when refused, they still smiled broadly. They welcomed us to their home regardless. When we got lost, a young boy offered to guide us for a fee. After we declined, he still pointed us in the right direction. This “ask for money first, then help” approach seemed to be their learned way of interacting with tourists, not ill-intentioned.
On Mabul Island, I met a boy selling coconuts from his small boat. He waved from afar, shouting “ten ringgit each.” Out of habit, I bargained with him and agreed on seven ringgit. When I handed him the money, he had already expertly opened the coconut, inserted a straw, and climbed up the sharp metal frame to hand it to me.
He stayed there, refusing to leave, softly saying “it should be ten ringgit.” In that moment, I felt conflicted. Part of me wanted to teach him about “business logic,” while another part felt guilty seeing him hanging on the metal frame, waiting for those three extra ringgit. Finally, I gave him ten ringgit. He thanked me and happily went to find his next customer.
I also saw a boy on the island using fishing line tied to rocks, trying to stun fish by throwing stones at them. For three hours, despite having no success, he persisted under the hot sun. I wondered: is he happy living this way?
My partner Qiang said something that reminded me: “Perhaps he looks down on you, working nine-to-five in a cubicle under a concrete ceiling.”
How can I know a fish’s happiness when I’m not a fish? This made me reflect on my arrogance and prejudice. For him, this free-spirited life might be exactly what I’m missing. I left my nine-to-five cubicle, only to find I still need another “cubicle” to survive.
Semporna Slow Life Guide: 13 Things to Do in Semporna Sabah
1/Enjoy “Slow Time” at the Seaside Starbucks
Semporna’s Starbucks might be one of the most scenic in the world. Located at the pier, you can order an iced Americano and watch fishing boats and island-hopping yachts from the wooden platform. There’s no urban rush here—just a chance to truly “waste time.”
I developed a habit here—setting aside 30 minutes of “purposeless time” each day, just like daydreaming by Semporna’s shore. No phone, no goals, just existing. This kind of “waste” actually rewarded me with more inspiration and inner peace.
2/Explore the Dragon Inn Water Village
This water village connected by wooden walkways is perfect for understanding the local mixed culture. The wooden structures glow copper in the sunlight, with air mixing sea and timber scents. Walking through, you feel the sea breeze on your face and hear wooden boards creaking underfoot, while Bajau children laugh and play in the distance.
3/Visit the Golden Mosque
Semporna’s mosque shines gold in the sunlight, symbolizing the region’s strong Islamic influence. Visit in early morning or evening to hear melodious prayers echoing across the water. Even non-Muslims can appreciate its solemnity and tranquility. Remember to dress modestly—women should borrow scarves to cover their hair.
4/Browse the Bahamas Local Supermarket
To truly understand a place, visit its local supermarket. Bahamas supermarket shelves display tropical fruits, special snacks, and everyday items. I discovered Malaysian durian candy and coconut cookies, with colorful Malay writing I couldn’t understand, but the joy of tasting them wasn’t diminished.
Waiting in line with locals creates ordinary yet authentic daily moments that often stick in memory more than carefully planned tourist activities.
5/Welcome Sunset at KAPALA Beach Bar in Semporna Sabah
Nothing beats sitting on KAPALA’s beach chairs, sipping chilled coconut juice while watching the sun slowly sink into the Borneo Sea. Orange-red sunlight creates shimmering gold bands on the water, beautifully silhouetting the Bajau water villages.
Here, sunsets aren’t crowded with tourists. You can truly empty your mind and feel nature’s grandeur and peace.
6/Hike Bukit Parapat Hill
For restless souls, Bukit Parapat Hill is just a 20-minute drive from Semporna town. After a 30-minute hike with sweat soaking your back, you’ll reach the top and overlook all of Semporna Sabah town and the blue sea. All fatigue turns to amazement.
Go in the morning to avoid midday heat and enjoy the islands’ silhouettes emerging from the morning mist. Bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
7/Enjoy a Local Spa Treatment
After a day of sea activities, nothing relieves fatigue like a spa. Semporna’s massage therapists use unique Malay traditional techniques combined with coconut oil to completely relax tense muscles.
I especially recommend choosing a spa room facing the sea. With the sound of waves and coconut breezes, your body and mind will find complete relaxation.
8/Taste Three-Color Yogurt Smoothies
On a hot afternoon, a cold three-color yogurt smoothie feels like a lifesaver. The super-sized smoothie costs 15 ringgit, with avocado, mango, and dragon fruit in distinct layers—both beautiful and delicious. Each sip brings the sweetness of tropical fruits, making you exclaim “avocado freedom!”
Many coffee shops in town serve these smoothies, but I recommend the small stand by the sea. The owner adds an extra spoonful of local honey, enhancing the flavor profile.
9/Watch Sunrise and Sunset at Seaview Hotel
Seaview Hotel isn’t just a good place to stay—it’s perfect for watching sunrise and sunset. At 5 AM, when the first ray of sunshine breaks through the clouds and reflects on the calm sea, it feels like the world contains only you and this blue expanse.
In the evening, the same waters turn golden-red. Bajau small boats cross through the setting sun’s remaining light, creating a moving picture.
10/Explore Semporna’s Weekend Market
On weekends, Semporna’s market bustles with activity. Stalls offer colorful Malaysian rice and crispy fried chicken—local dinner favorites. The air fills with spice and grilled meat aromas, mixing with calls from vendors and bargaining voices.
Here you taste authentic food and glimpse local daily life. I noticed Malaysians like to sample before buying and chat warmly with vendors. This leisurely rhythm of life easily infected me.
11/Try Bargaining at the Seafood Market
Seafood market opens a window into local culture in Semporna Sabah. Market middlemen are local Malays, while the actual fishermen are Bajau people on nearby boats.
I followed a boy about ten years old to select seafood. Though my bargaining skills were poor, the whole process became an unforgettable cultural experience. You might not get the cheapest seafood, but you’ll experience this unique trading style. Worth mentioning—at dusk, you can see many Bajau people “clocking off” and rowing their boats back to their water houses. It’s an unforgettable sight.
12/Taste Creamy Seafood
At seaside seafood restaurants, give your market-fresh seafood to the chef and choose the creamy cooking style. Malaysian creamy seafood differs from flavors we’re familiar with. It includes coconut milk and special curry powder, preserving the seafood’s freshness while adding rich spice flavors.
Crabs and lobsters are especially suited to this cooking method. The cream’s richness perfectly blends with the seafood’s freshness, creating an unforgettable taste. Semporna Sabah
13/Interact and Take Photos with Bajau Children
On Mabul Island or Semporna’s shores, you’ll often meet enthusiastic Bajau children. When they notice your camera, they naturally strike various poses, showing pure joy and vitality.
Once, while my companion was photographing seascapes, their lens accidentally swept past a boy on a boat. He immediately excitedly posed for the camera, displaying a natural and pure vitality that touched us deeply. Take time to interact with them or take some photos—you’ll find their smiles more memorable than any tourist attraction.
Understanding Bajau Culture: Wisdom of the Sea Gypsies
The Bajau, known as “sea gypsies,” have lived on the sea for generations, leading a stateless, nomadic life. From childhood, they show extraordinary swimming abilities, able to deep dive without modern equipment.
Though living in waters between Semporna Sabah Malaysia, the Philippines, and Indonesia, their lack of nationality means they can’t access basic education and healthcare. Yet they survive through ocean gifts and their own wisdom, creating a unique way of life.
The brothers I saw on the island deeply impressed me. The older brother, maybe ten years old, already took care of his five or six-year-old brother. When the younger one accidentally cut his finger on a coconut, the older brother could only scoop seawater to wash the wound while softly comforting him. This maturity and toughness far exceeded their age.
If you’re interested, watch these documentaries to learn more about the Bajau:
- “Jago: A Life Underwater”: Shows their life through an 80-year-old Bajau man’s perspective
- “Walking Under Water”: Records the cultural conflicts and survival challenges facing the Bajau
- “A Wonderful Journey: The Bajau Who Live by the Sea”: Shows their exile history and sea life
- “Once Upon a Bite” Season 2 “Sweet and Elusive”: Shows Bajau people diving without oxygen tanks to gather food
Reflection and Insight: Different Faces of Life
Each dive brings me closer to nature, as if placed in God’s fish tank, feeling life’s fragility and beauty. But Semporna’s deepest lesson is this: many different ways of life exist in this world, each with its own value and beauty.
I watched two girls from Zhejiang buy coconuts from Bajau brothers. Having no small change, they borrowed five ringgit from me. I noticed coconut prices had dropped from ten to five ringgit since morning—they lowered prices as tourists prepared to leave. The coconut-selling brother was about ten, his brother perhaps only five or six.
When the older brother broke open the coconut, he accidentally cut his brother’s hand. He couldn’t immediately care for him, busy handing coconuts to customers. Back on their boat, seeing his brother’s bleeding hand, he could only scoop seawater to clean the wound while softly comforting him.
This deeply moved me. I remembered how my parents would immediately bandage my wounds when I was hurt as a child, telling me to be brave. Yet these brothers, with the ten-year-old already supporting his younger brother, could only handle injuries in the most primitive way.
When we judge others by our own standards, we often fall into arrogance and prejudice. That boy trying to fish at sea for three hours without success still enjoyed freedom and the vast sky and sea. Meanwhile, we escape urban “cubicles” but remain trapped in invisible cages.
The ocean embraces all life. As travelers, can we similarly embrace different lifestyles? Your foot cut by coral heals in a day, but coral needs centuries to heal. Similarly, our prejudices form instantly, but true understanding and respect require a long inner journey.
Conclusion: Freedom Between Sea and Sky
Back in Semporna town, I strolled through this small town that only takes two to three hours to explore. Here, Islamic culture intertwines with maritime civilization, creating a unique atmosphere. Sitting in a cafe by the pier, I pondered what true freedom means.
Perhaps freedom isn’t escaping the “cubicle,” but finding inner peace in any environment. Those Bajau children, despite limited material conditions, possess the purity and vitality we all crave. When they pose for cameras, they show life’s most authentic state.
In Semporna Sabah, simplicity and happiness intertwine. Despite material scarcity, people’s smiles and enthusiasm fill this place with warmth. When we drop our judgments and appreciate different life rhythms, we truly find inner peace.
This wasn’t an ordinary trip, but a quest for life’s essence. That Bajau boy posing for our camera—his smile is more memorable than any luxury hotel’s comfort.
If you plan to visit Semporna Sabah, slow down, communicate sincerely with locals, and feel this waters’ unique charm and wisdom. Perhaps, like me, you’ll find yourself in this blue expanse, learning to set aside daily “purposeless time” to find moments of peace in your busy life.
In Semporna Sabah, you don’t need to chase anything. Relaxing is perfectly fine. Because the sea is accepting, and you, rightfully, should be free.
Have you experienced similar cultural shocks? Share your story in the comments. Next month, I’ll take you to feel the serene of Koyasan in Japan. Stay tuned!